Chaloklum

One of the best beaches in Koh Phangan is Chaloklum. It is in the north of the island, accessed by a good road from Thongsala that goes over flatish jungle. The noticeable thing about Chaloklum is that it has kept its character – it’s not been overtaken with expensive luxury resorts, nor has it become solely a party center. It has these elements but it remains very much the same place as it was 15 years ago. As a result Chaloklum is a favorite with regular returnees to Koh Phangan.

Chaloklum consists of a road that runs parallel to the beach. Along this road there are still a few of the traditional wooden Chinese fisherman’s houses. This invites comparisons with Fisherman’s Village in Bophut, Koh Samui. However, unlike in Bophut many of the houses are still used by fishermen instead of being converted into boutique bars, cafes and shops.

The Chaloklum village is an intriguing mix of the old and the new. There are local shops and restaurants next to boutique places like the Mandalai Hotel and Sheesha Bar. There are also backpacker bars, dive shops, book shops, DVD places etc. On the corner next to the main road is a very handy 7-11 where you can buy cheap drinks and snacks.

Beaches

The main beach at Chaloklum is long – 2.5 km long. Near the center is a pier that the fishermen use. There are good swimming spots to either side of the pier. Being such a long beach it is easy to find an uncrowded part of the beach. Indeed Chaloklum never feels particularly crowded.

The best beach is a sand bank just off the coast. It is accessed via a bridge from Malibu Beach Bungalows. The beach is thus called Malibu Beach. As is so often the case, it is claimed to be a ‘private beach’ but in law it isn’t. The sand is fine white and the sea clear.

From Chaloklum there is a path through a forest to the small beach of Haad Khom. It can be done by motorbike or 4 wheel drive. From March to November some of the bungalow places in Haad Khom shut as it is the lower tidal months. There is an extensive coral reef system at Haad Khom that makes it a great spot for snorkeling.

Haad Khom has no mains electricity. It is a quiet and hippy style beach popular with long stay visitors. Here you can strike a deal to pay for a fan bungalow on a monthly rate. Coconut Beach and Garden Bungalows has bungalows starting at 300 THB a night. Ocean View Resort has bungalows from 450 THB. Often there are no seasonal variations in price at Haad Khom and certainly no minimum stay requirement because of the Full Moon Party.

Activities in Chaloklum

Chaloklum is one of the better places for those who like to do something other than lie on a beach and read a book. Diving is popular. There are a few dive schools at Chaloklum, the best of which is probably Chaloklum Diving.

The wind sometimes gets up in the bay. There is a place on the beach that offers kite boarding and wake boarding.

Near Chaloklum village there is a place that offers elephant treks in the jungle. Opposite is another place that has archery.

From Chaloklum it is possible to walk to Haad Khom and from there you can take a coastal path over to Bottle Beach. For those people intent on a big adventure, the trail continues on to Thong Nai Pan Noi.

Nightlife in Chaloklum

Chaloklum is not a party beach. It is much more laid back and less packed with bars and bodies than Haad Rin. However, it is not a bad place to go out for a few drinks. Drinking spots include the stylish Sheesha Bar where you can get a sea view and suck on a Sheesha pipe. Opposite is Omega Bar. On Wednesday nights Omega Bar has a jam session. They have amps, instruments and a stage. Often ex-pats appear to get some lively jamming going.

In the jungle just off the main village road is Crow Bar. It serves a range of cocktails and snacks and often has a party night. The newest bar in Chaloklum is Zhaba Jazz Bar. It is a converted fisherman’s house on the beach that plays jazz music.

For trance heads in the high seasons there is often an all night party 1 km from Chaloklum. It is the Paradise Waterfall Party, near Paradise Bungalows. The waterfall is not much but there are permanent buildings in the jungle that provide alcohol, food and chill out areas. The party is similar to most of the other parties in Koh Phangan (the Half Moon, Shiva Moon, Black Moon and Jungle Experience) in that it is mostly psy-trance and progressive house beats.

Accommodation in Chaloklum

There are a number of places to stay the beach and nearby. At the west end of the beach is the popular Chaloklum Bay Resort. It has plenty of bungalows both fan and air-con. It also has a small pool. For hotel style rooms there is Viva on the Beach.

A new place is Buri Tara Resort and Spa. It is at the east end of the beach. It has air-con cottages and the resort has an impressive free form pool overlooking the beach.

If you hunt around you can still find some of the original fan bungalows that go for about 300 Thai Baht a night.

Plaay Laem Beach Review

Plaay Laem is located in the south-west of Koh Phangan. It is an area of the island that is much less visited than other parts, especially the south-west where the twin beaches of Haad Rin dominate the tourist scene. In many ways this is a good thing because part of the undoubted charm of Plaay Laem for the visitor is that it is an empty beach.

It is not easy to reach Plaay Laem. You cannot simply hop on a motorbike and drive there. A short ride from Thongsala there is a footpath that is inaccessible by normal bike. A visitor must walk the final ten minutes to get to Plaay Laem beach. The alternative is to hire a longtail boat in Thongsala and take the sea route to the beach.

Plaay Laem is a beautiful white sand beach with a great sunset and view of Angthong National Park in the distance. Behind the beach rises the mountain of Khao Hin Nok. The mountain appears to overflow from the land and spill at into the sea. The result is giant granite boulders scattered around the bay of Plaay Laem. Consequently the best place to kayak in Koh Phangan is Plaay Laem. It is great fun exploring the rocks just off the coast. It is also possible to organize sailing and windsurfing if you stay at Plaay Laem

80 meters off the shore there is a coral reef that is great for snorkeling. The only downside to the beach at Plaay Laem is that the sea shelf gets deep gradually before the corals. This makes swimming best during the higher tidal months between November and April.

Accommodation in Plaay Laem

The cheapest place to stay in Plaay Laem is Cookies Bungalow. They have basic fan bungalows starting at 300 Thai Baht a night. They also have better air-con bungalows available. It is at Cookies Bungalow that you can organize sailing and windsurfing.

Recommended is Sabai Beach Resort. They have clay and Thai thatched bungalows both beachfront and sea view. Some of the bungalows are directly on the beach; others command impressive views as they are elevated. Sabai Beach Resort offers basic bungalows as well as air-con bungalows with TV, fridge and DVD player. Bungalows at Sabai Beach Resort cost between 900 THB and 2,500 THB. They also have a restaurant.

Click here to find out more about Sabai Beach Resort

Another good accommodation option at Plaay Laem is Amsterdam Bar and Stone Hill Resort. The Amsterdam reference might not be lost on all; and yes, Plaay Laem is a very laid back place. Amsterdam Bar is accessed from the main road and is built on a giant rock. The veranda at the bar has the best views of the spectacular sunset at Plaay Laem.

Near the bar there are a few air-con bungalows including a family bungalow suitable for 4 people. All the bungalows have large balconies and are great places to enjoy the view.

Click here to find out more about Amsterdam Bar and Stone Hill Resort

Conclusion

Plaay Laem might not have the best beach in Koh Phangan, but it does have one of the quietest beaches. It is a great place to relax and escape the crowds. Plaay Laem is also a good place to enjoy water sports such as kayaking, sailing and windsurfing. Plaay Laem is ideal for couples and for those who like to be near all the amenities of Thongsala but want to enjoy a beautiful beach locale.

Haad Yuan

Haad Yuan on the east coast of Koh Phangan is just 5 km north of the main party beaches of Haad Rin Nok and Haad Rin Nai and yet this small and isolated beach feels like a million miles away from the brash and hedonistic atmosphere of Haad Rin.

Haad Yuan - Window on the past

Haad Yuan is like a window onto the past. The small beach has avoided development partly because it is only accessible by jungle footpath or by longtail boat and partly because most of the bungalow owners are opposed to big development such as has occurred on Thong Nai Pan Noi that prices most people out of the market.

The beach still has simple bungalows made from natural and local materials such as coconut wood. They offer a fan, a bathroom (optional) a mosquito net and a small veranda. Bamboo Resort, Horizon Resort and Haad Yuan Resort all offer such basic bungalows. These are some of the cheapest places to stay on the entire island.

And the great thing about Haad Yuan is that it is one of the most picturesque beaches on the island. It has fine white sand and the sea has only a small tidal difference. Unlike many of the beaches on the west coast, Haad Yuan offers year round swimming.

There are also some good trails to follow in the area. It is a short walk to the equally beautiful beach of Haad Thian (East) where people study tai chi, yoga etc.

Concession to the 21st Century

There is no one resort with air-con rooms and a communal swimming pool. This is the only concession that Haad Yuan seems to be making to the 21st Century. The place is Centara Pariya Haad Yuan. It has 39 beach villas built from concrete in a round style. The rooms are well appointed and the villas fit unobtrusively into the jungle fringe of the beach.

For people looking for a beach near Haad Rin but without noise, Haad Yuan is a good option. For those people looking for privacy and the ultimate in relaxing atmospheres Haad Yuan is a good option. And for those people wondering what Koh Phangan used to be like Haad Yuan is a good choice.

Haad Salad

Haad Salad and Koh Phangan

Haad Salad is the name of a beautiful beach that is located in the north west of the tropical island of Koh Phangan. It is a less well known beach than other destinations on Koh Phangan such as Haad Rin, Haad Yao and Thong Nai Pan Noi, and this is to its advantage, as the beach is one of the most unspoiled and peaceful of all the beaches on the island.

Koh Phangan is blessed with over 20 beaches. Most of them have fine white sand, clear blue waters and tropical foliage. It is typical of human nature that most first time visitors to the island head for the most commercial beaches. It seems that people want to have the same experiences wherever they go.

It is only those who re-visit the paradise island of Koh Phangan who realize that there is so much more to the place than simply the Full Moon Party. These are the people you will encounter if you stay at Haad Salad.

Haad Salad - pirate hangout

In Thai ‘haad’ means ‘beach’ and in southern dialect ‘salad’ means ‘pirate’. This small beach was so named because it was a favorite smugglers’ hangout many years ago. The bay allows only shallow bottom boats because there is a coral reef 150 meters out from the coast. This provided protection to those seeking to hide from the Thai navy.

Nowadays the pirates have gone. Until recently Haad Salad was a place catering exclusively to backpackers and those wishing to stay long term and cheaply. Now Haad Salad has a good range of accommodation. There are both cheap bungalows on the beach and air-con rooms. Prices range from $10 to $120 a night for accommodation.

Accommodation and Bars on Haad Salad

There’s a good selection of restaurants, bars, shops and cafés on Haad Salad. It is a beach with good facilities but it remains quiet. It is not a party beach.

To enter the beach you first pass a number of businesses including Reggae Village and the ever popular Haad Salad Reggae Bar. Reggae is far more the flavor of Haad Salad than the psy-trance of Haad Rin.

The swimming in Haad Salad is best during the high tidal months of November to April. The coral reefs just out in the bay offer great snorkeling and diving opportunities. Nearby is Koh Ma, Koh Phangan’s only Marine Park. Other places of interest nearby include Wangsai Waterfall and Laem Son lake.

After staying on Haad Salad for a while you begin to wonder why anybody would prefer bigger and noisier beaches; you also start to envy those earlier pirates.

Bottle Beach Review

Legendary Status of Bottle Beach

Bottle Beach is legendary in traveler’s circles because of its perfect beach backed by lush jungle. Until a few years ago Bottle Beach was one of the most inaccessible beaches on Koh Phangan. That has somewhat changed since a road was built connecting Bottle Beach to the Thong Nai Pan road. It nevertheless remains a very attractive beach destination for those who like their nature unspoiled.

It used to be that the only way to leave Bottle Beach was to take a taxi longtail or to attempt a hike through the jungle to the nearest road followed by a hitch back to Thong Sala. If the weather turned and the sea became choppy then people found themselves stranded on Bottle Beach for a few extra days.

And what a place to become stranded! Bottle Beach has a wide golden sand beach with good year round swimming. The water is clear and often small fish can be seen. Behind the beach is undisturbed jungle as far as the eye can see. There are a number of trails that you can take from the beach. One of them leads to a view point over the bay.

Accommodation on Bottle Beach

The accommodation on Bottle Beach is not luxurious, but neither is it uncomfortable. There are 4 accommodation providers – Smile Resort, Haad Khuat Resort (Bottle Beach 3), Bottle Beach 1 and Bottle Beach 2. These places offer air-con or fan bungalows with bathrooms.

As yet there are no hotels or luxury resorts on Bottle Beach. This is one of the beaches on Koh Phangan that has so far resisted the call to promote itself as a package tourist destination complete with swimming pools and Thais wearing uniforms.

Advantage of Bottle Beach

The main advantage of Bottle Beach is that there is no road behind the beach. This means there is never any traffic noise. It also completely eliminates those visitors who enjoy polluting the air by zapping here and there on their bikes.

For some Bottle Beach remains one of the best places to unwind not just in Thailand but in all of South East Asia. For those who like to go shopping and enjoy a variety of bars and restaurants and a loud nightlife this is not the beach for you.

Budget Places to Stay in Bantai

There is a wide selection of accommodation options in the small village of Bantai in the South of Koh Phangan. Bantai is conveniently situated on the road between Thongsala, the main port town and Haad Rin, the home of the Full Moon Party. There is a great stretch of white sand beach running the length of Bantai which is only broken by a small river that marks the boundary with neighboring Bankai.

Bantai offers a great combination of convenience and unspoiled beauty. There is a small selection of restaurants, internet shops and shops on the main road including the Bantai 7-11 where you can pick up cheap food and other essentials. Yet the place is quiet and laid back.

Bantai makes a great spot for those people who are keen to party. The Full Moon Party is 10 minutes away, the Half Moon Party is around the corner as is the more intimate Black Moon Party. Yet you can easily get away from the noise when you return to your resort.

Prices for accommodation are generally a lot more reasonable in Bantai than in Haad Rin.

Here is an updated list of places to stay in Bantai (February 2011) with the prices. Budget places first. Simply click on the place to take you through to the R24.org booking engine for secure online booking. Secure a great deal today.

Coco Garden Bungalows 450 thb (low season); 500 thb (high season)

Field Paradise Village 400 thb (low season); 500 thb (high season)

Holiday Beach Resort 530 thb (low season); 700 thb (high season)

Phangan Beach Resort 550 thb (low season); 600 thb (high season)

Sabaii Bay Resort 600 thb (low season); 800 thb (high season)

My Phangan Resort 500 thb(low season); 600 thb (high season)

Jungle Bar and Bungalow 700 thb (low season); 850 thb (high season)

The Garden Lodge 1,200 thb (low season); 1,700 thb (high season) - RECOMMENDED

Palida Garden Resort 800 thb (low season); 1,000 thb (high season)

Beer Bungalow 1,000 thb (low season); 1,250 thb (high season)

Rungarun Resort 1,500 thb (low season); 1,800 thb (high season)

Milky Bay Resort 1,400 thb (low season); 1,600 thb (high season)

Power Beach Resort 1,200 thb (low season); 1,400 thb (high season) - SPECIAL RATE

Pimolsuph House 1,500 thb (low season); 1,800 thb (high season)

Da Kinda Villa Beach Resort 1,600 thb (low season); 2,100 thb (high season)

B52 Beach Resort 1,650 thb (low season); 1,950 thb (high season)

Morning Star Resort 1,600 thb (low season); 1,790 thb (high season) - HOT DEAL

Awe Resort (private Villa for 4 people) 5,100 thb (low season); high season 5,500 thb

For reviews of these resorts click the links and you will find review links at the bottom of the page just below the price lists. Don't forget to check about minimum stay requirements if you intend to stay during the time of a Full Moon Party.