Bantai Revisited

Bantai is now the second most popular beach in Koh Phangan after Haad Rin. And just like Haad Rin just down the road, its popularity is largely based on the party business.

Over the past few years Bantai parties have dramatically increased in number. The Jungle Experience and the Half Moon Party has been joined by Rhythm and Sands. There are also the after parties at Baan Sabai. Last year saw the opening of Loi Lay Floating Bar that holds regular DJ events. Most recently the Ku Club opened its doors offering supposedly Ibiza style events on the beach.

The party goers are flocking to Bantai. The long beach has some good hotels and resorts. It also has plenty of budget backpacker places.

Another draw for Bantai is that it is located on the main road to Thongsala. There are plenty of bars and restaurants along this road including the small but infamous red-light district in Koh Phangan. The less seedy bars have live sports and some have live music.

However, putting all this aside, what is Bantai beach like? Well it is a beautiful long stretch of white sand. The sand is fine and is mostly kept clean. The biggest problem is the tide. There is a seasonal tidal shift that affects the waters around Koh Phangan. The high tidal months are October to April. At other times the water recedes a long way at low tide.

The photographs above were taken from the Lime N Soda Resort in June. The tide gets really low on Bantai beach during June and July. Indeed sometimes it’s awkward for big boats to get into the main ferry pier just down the coast in Thong Sala during this time.

At the time the pictures were taken you had to walk 1 kilometer out from the beach before it became deep enough to swim. There are also lots of rocks just below the surface that can cause injury.

Considering July and August are the high season for the island, I would suggest that many people who don’t choose the beach exclusively for dancing to techno and trance will end up disappointed with Bantai.

The best all-year-round swimming beaches in Koh Phangan are found on the East Coast of the island where the tidal changes have minimal impact. The most famous of these beaches are Thong Nai Pan Noi and Yai and Than Sadet.

Haad Yuan

Haad Yuan on the east coast of Koh Phangan is just 5 km north of the main party beaches of Haad Rin Nok and Haad Rin Nai and yet this small and isolated beach feels like a million miles away from the brash and hedonistic atmosphere of Haad Rin.

Haad Yuan - Window on the past

Haad Yuan is like a window onto the past. The small beach has avoided development partly because it is only accessible by jungle footpath or by longtail boat and partly because most of the bungalow owners are opposed to big development such as has occurred on Thong Nai Pan Noi that prices most people out of the market.

The beach still has simple bungalows made from natural and local materials such as coconut wood. They offer a fan, a bathroom (optional) a mosquito net and a small veranda. Bamboo Resort, Horizon Resort and Haad Yuan Resort all offer such basic bungalows. These are some of the cheapest places to stay on the entire island.

And the great thing about Haad Yuan is that it is one of the most picturesque beaches on the island. It has fine white sand and the sea has only a small tidal difference. Unlike many of the beaches on the west coast, Haad Yuan offers year round swimming.

There are also some good trails to follow in the area. It is a short walk to the equally beautiful beach of Haad Thian (East) where people study tai chi, yoga etc.

Concession to the 21st Century

There is no one resort with air-con rooms and a communal swimming pool. This is the only concession that Haad Yuan seems to be making to the 21st Century. The place is Centara Pariya Haad Yuan. It has 39 beach villas built from concrete in a round style. The rooms are well appointed and the villas fit unobtrusively into the jungle fringe of the beach.

For people looking for a beach near Haad Rin but without noise, Haad Yuan is a good option. For those people looking for privacy and the ultimate in relaxing atmospheres Haad Yuan is a good option. And for those people wondering what Koh Phangan used to be like Haad Yuan is a good choice.