Monitor Lizards in Bottle Beach

The picture is a scan of a photograph taken at Bottle Beach in 1999. I remember the occasion fairly clearly. One of the Thais working at Cookies had caught a giant monitor lizard and had put it in a wicker cage.

The lizard had awful smelling breath. Its tongue flicked menacingly through the gaps in the cage. From head to tail the creature was nearly a full arm-span in length.

The lad who had caught the lizard was full of pride and glee. He kept making the joke that it was going to be chicken curry tonight.

That same holiday we saw more giant monitor lizards sunning themselves on the rocks below the Panviman swimming pool in Thong Nai Pan Noi.

It seemed at that time that these harmless (if left alone) but nasty-looking creatures were all over the island.

In 2008 I encountered a group of Thais and Burmese on a building site. They were a friendly bunch and I sat and had a glass of lao khao with them (Laotian white spirits). They also offered me some sun dried meat. Much to their amusement I declined their offer when they had managed to explain to me that the meat was lizard.

Since that time I have spotted fewer and fewer monitors around the island.

It is tempting to suggest that as beaches such as Bottle Beach and Thong Nai Pan Noi got more developed the lizards had less space to lounge and prey on insects (and whatever else they eat) in peace and quiet.

There are also deer on the island around Than Sadet. They were released as a tribute to the King who loved the waterfall next to Haad Than Sadet. I’ve never seen these deer. I hope the East Coast changes caused by the new Airport don’t reduce the numbers of deer.

The challenge for Koh Phangan is to develop its infrastructure and tourist industry without damaging its beautiful natural environment.

Bottle Beach Review

Legendary Status of Bottle Beach

Bottle Beach is legendary in traveler’s circles because of its perfect beach backed by lush jungle. Until a few years ago Bottle Beach was one of the most inaccessible beaches on Koh Phangan. That has somewhat changed since a road was built connecting Bottle Beach to the Thong Nai Pan road. It nevertheless remains a very attractive beach destination for those who like their nature unspoiled.

It used to be that the only way to leave Bottle Beach was to take a taxi longtail or to attempt a hike through the jungle to the nearest road followed by a hitch back to Thong Sala. If the weather turned and the sea became choppy then people found themselves stranded on Bottle Beach for a few extra days.

And what a place to become stranded! Bottle Beach has a wide golden sand beach with good year round swimming. The water is clear and often small fish can be seen. Behind the beach is undisturbed jungle as far as the eye can see. There are a number of trails that you can take from the beach. One of them leads to a view point over the bay.

Accommodation on Bottle Beach

The accommodation on Bottle Beach is not luxurious, but neither is it uncomfortable. There are 4 accommodation providers – Smile Resort, Haad Khuat Resort (Bottle Beach 3), Bottle Beach 1 and Bottle Beach 2. These places offer air-con or fan bungalows with bathrooms.

As yet there are no hotels or luxury resorts on Bottle Beach. This is one of the beaches on Koh Phangan that has so far resisted the call to promote itself as a package tourist destination complete with swimming pools and Thais wearing uniforms.

Advantage of Bottle Beach

The main advantage of Bottle Beach is that there is no road behind the beach. This means there is never any traffic noise. It also completely eliminates those visitors who enjoy polluting the air by zapping here and there on their bikes.

For some Bottle Beach remains one of the best places to unwind not just in Thailand but in all of South East Asia. For those who like to go shopping and enjoy a variety of bars and restaurants and a loud nightlife this is not the beach for you.

Song for Bottle Beach

You know a place must be either really good or really bad if it can inspire a song. The Bottle Beach Song is a bit of a hippy cliche but it gives you a good idea about:

1) How gorgeous Bottle Beach is

2) How peaceful the place is and how perfect it is for a beach holiday.

Although Bottle Beach or Haad Kruat/Kruad has expanded from 1 resort offering basic coconut thatched bungalows for $3 a night to 3 resorts with $10 to $20 a night fancy bungalows, it still remains one of the least developed beaches on the island. It used to be cut off from the rest of the island. Now there's a road through to Thong Nai Pan Noi. It remains a hard place to get to and definitely worth the effort.

There's virtually no tide on Bottle Beach. It is great for year round swimming. You can sometimes spot little fish in the sea. There are also some good trails to follow into the jungle behind the beach.

Anyway, without further ado here's the Bottle Beach Song.

To book cheap accommodation on Bottle Beach click here

Trekking Routes in Koh Phangan

Koh Phangan is blessed with an abundance of unspoiled nature: jungle, mountains, waterfalls and inaccessible beaches are all available to explore by those wishing to trek on the island. This post details some of the trekking routes available on Koh Phangan.

Khao Ra

Khao Ra is the highest peak in Koh Phangan. It stands 630 meters above sea level. From the summit there are great views of the bays of Thong Nai Pan and Chaloklum. On a clear day the distant island of Koh Tao is also visible. The trek starts near the elephant place and view point on the road between Thong Nai Pan and Bantai. It is not an overly strenuous walk but the path is not well marked. ‘Bird and Trekking’ man (on the Bantai-Thong Nai Pan road) has organized tours up the mountain.

Phaeng Waterfall

This is one of the best waterfalls on the island. It is a national park so the whole area is protected against development. It is free to enter the park. The trek involves a steep walk up a jungle trail. Once at the waterfall it is possible to take one of several clearly marked trails to a nearby mountain viewpoint. From there you can follow trails up Khao Ra. The trail is in the middle of the island. To get to the trail head take the main road from Thongsala to Chaloklum and take the sign posted turning off to the right (if you are heading north).

Chaloklum to Bottle Beach

You can reach the remote and beautiful beach of Bottle Beach or Haad Kuat. The trek takes about two hours. The path starts at the western end of Chaloklum. Follow the dirt  path to Haad Khom and then take the narrow and winding narrow path over the mountain that drops down to Bottle Beach.

Haad Yuan and Haad Thian

This is an excellent two hour trek that starts in Haad Rin and goes north over mountainous terrain before dropping down to the beautiful beaches of Haad Yuan and Haad Thian. There are no roads to these beaches, but you can take a boat out or retrace your steps.

Companies offering organized trekking tours include: Hippo Club Tours (Thongsala), Phangan Safari (Chaloklum) and Phangan Safari Eco-nature Tour (Chaloklum).

Remember to follow these simple rules for your own safety.

1)    Don't trek alone
2)    Tell somebody where you are going so they can call out help if you don't home back.
3)    Bring plenty of water and sunblock.
4)    Wear boots or good shoes. Not flip flops. The island has many snakes, including the poisonous variety.
5)    Get a map, no matter how basic, to guide you. A compass is also useful too.
6)    Give yourself extra time to do the trek. There's nothing worse than being stuck in the middle of the jungle in the dark.
7)    Bring insect and mosquito repellent.
8)    Don't leave any rubbish behind.
9)    Don't start fires.