Monitor Lizards in Bottle Beach

The picture is a scan of a photograph taken at Bottle Beach in 1999. I remember the occasion fairly clearly. One of the Thais working at Cookies had caught a giant monitor lizard and had put it in a wicker cage.

The lizard had awful smelling breath. Its tongue flicked menacingly through the gaps in the cage. From head to tail the creature was nearly a full arm-span in length.

The lad who had caught the lizard was full of pride and glee. He kept making the joke that it was going to be chicken curry tonight.

That same holiday we saw more giant monitor lizards sunning themselves on the rocks below the Panviman swimming pool in Thong Nai Pan Noi.

It seemed at that time that these harmless (if left alone) but nasty-looking creatures were all over the island.

In 2008 I encountered a group of Thais and Burmese on a building site. They were a friendly bunch and I sat and had a glass of lao khao with them (Laotian white spirits). They also offered me some sun dried meat. Much to their amusement I declined their offer when they had managed to explain to me that the meat was lizard.

Since that time I have spotted fewer and fewer monitors around the island.

It is tempting to suggest that as beaches such as Bottle Beach and Thong Nai Pan Noi got more developed the lizards had less space to lounge and prey on insects (and whatever else they eat) in peace and quiet.

There are also deer on the island around Than Sadet. They were released as a tribute to the King who loved the waterfall next to Haad Than Sadet. I’ve never seen these deer. I hope the East Coast changes caused by the new Airport don’t reduce the numbers of deer.

The challenge for Koh Phangan is to develop its infrastructure and tourist industry without damaging its beautiful natural environment.

Places to Visit in Koh Phangan

For those people who want to do something other than rave the night away at the Full Moon Party there are a number of interesting places to visit in Koh Phangan.

Firstly, there are over 20 temples to visit on the island. The oldest is Wat Phu Khao Noi, just outside Thongsala, near the Hospital. It has some interesting Chedis and a great view over the island. There is also the Chinese Temple on the road between Chaloklum and Thongsala. It is a beautiful temple that was built as the result of a dream that Mrs Malawan had while visiting the island. She dreamed of the Chinese Buddha, Jaomae Kuanin. After the dream she went to Bangkok and raised the money to build the temple that was completed in 1992.

If temples aren't your thing then there are a number of waterfalls to visit on the island. There is Phaeng Waterfall on the trek up to the top of Khao Ra mountain. There is Wang Sai Waterfall near Koh Ma in the north west of Koh Phangan. There is the famous waterfall of Than Sadet where 3 Kings of Thailand have their intitials on the rocks. And there is Thaan Prawet Waterfall near Thong Nai Pan Noi beach.

There are also a number of treks on the island including the walk up to the top of Koh Phangan's highest mountain, Khao Ra. The trek starts at the small village of Baan Madua Wan. You can hire a guide in the village for 500 THB. 

On really hot days a good place to cool off is at Leam Son Lake. The lake is situated on the coastal road on the west of the island just before Haad Yao. There are shady pine trees and a few rope swings for diving into the water. No fishing allowed.

Other places of interest to visit include the fishing village of Chaloklum in the north of the island. There you will find traditional architecture, long tail boats and fishermen mending their nets.

And finally, if you fancy a boat trip a good day excursion is to Ang Thong Marine Park. it is a collection of 40 islands in a protected nature reserve. There are coral reefs to snorkel, kayaking around the islands, limestone caves and a giant saltwater lake. It is possible to arrange over night camping trips to the Marine Park.

And of course when you have had enough of exploring Koh Phangan you can always return to your resort, have a swim and enjoy a cocktail as you watch the sunset.