Wednesday, 25 October 2017

Holistic School Opens in Haad Yao



The west coast of Koh Phangan has over the last few years become a centre for yoga, holistic practices and spiritual endeavours. The healing arts of yoga, reiki, tai chi, Pilates and meditation are much in evidence. Agama Yoga has created a New Age university to attract acolytes wanting to teach yoga. And now we have Serenity Residence creating a school in very much a New Age mould. Woolly thinking and commercial interest find another way of joining forces.

The Serenity Residence mission statement reads:

"Each person finds identity, meaning and purpose in life through connections to the community, to the natural world and to humanitarian values such as compassion and peace."

Like with Steiner Schools in the UK, the emphasis is on personal development. There is nothing wrong with that. The opposite, a Gradgrind philosophy of memorising information to deploy in a dehumansing world of profit and machines, is far from desirable. However, a balance must be struck. Children need to learn to read and write, do sums, name capital cities, understand the science of climate change, be able to read the fine print on interest rates as well as discover they like finger painting and playing the guitar.

The world outside of Koh Phangan is interested in academic qualifications, syllabuses, systems for child security, eye checks and the whole panoply of concerns of a parent that has to take responsibility for a child until it can take care of itself.

That is why the spelling mistakes on the school website are very worrying. Even more worrying is the sentence construction that lumps together big ideas of 'self-actualisation' and 'collective responsibility'. Where was the responsibility to put an apostrophe in 'everyones'? Big assertions without details of implementation or the need to spell check should be a red flag for parents. These nebulous ideas might make sense when you are cross-eyed and bristling with pranic power but fail to fly in an educational context where performance can be measured by exams.

The good news is that the fees are reasonable - just 4,000 Thai Baht a month. There is also facilities for school lunches, and there is a school bus. The average class size is just 10.


The name 'Serenity Residence' demonstrates the commercial core to this enterprise. The residences are a group of apartments for short and long term rental. They can probably be bought by anyone with the cash. It is a business geared to those looking for yoga holidays. It is a small step to move into the ex-pat market: those who fell in love with Koh Phangan and higher consciousness and want to subject their children to sunshine, sea and limited educational resources. I wish they had done more to disguise the off-shoot nature of the school. It could have been called 'Serenity School'. Or maybe not - that still sounds like a yoga school.

Friday, 23 June 2017

How to get from Koh Phangan to Koh Phi Phi

Koh Phangan is ridiculously laid back and the beaches are ridiculously beautiful. The same is even more true for the two Phi Phi islands. One island is so laid back it is deserted (Phi Phi Leh). The other island is jungle that gives way to a perfect sandy beach. There are the cliffs at Phi Phi and of course the scenery used in the movies. Phi Phi just off Phuket doesn't have the Full Moon Party, or even the Half Moon Party, but it does have perfect beaches. Thus, those beach junkies visiting Thailand will certainly want to check out Koh Phi Phi as well as Koh Phangan.

There are 2 companies that currently offer travel packages to get tourists from Koh Phangan to Koh Phi Phi. They are Seatran Discovery and Phantip Travel. Of the two Seatran is slightly more expensive for online booking (1,100 THB) compared with the Phantip price of 900 Thai Baht.

The Seatrain service departs from Thongsala pier at 8am. It is a combined ferry- bus-ferry ticket. The bus gets to Chaokoh ferry pier at 3pm and gets you to Koh Phi Phi at 4.30pm.

Phantip Travel uses a different route. Passengers take the car ferry from Thongsala to Donsak, and from there transfer to a bus. The journey starts at 7am and you get to Koh Phi Phi at 4pm. Thus for the 200 Thai Baht saving you get a journey time that is 30 minutes longer.

In terms of comfort, reliability, safety and level of service there is very little between the 2 companies. The Seatran Discovery boat is a bit faster than the Raja car ferry. However, the Raja is a much bigger boat and can deal with worse nautical conditions.

You can book tickets from Koh Phangan to Koh Phi Phi online here. It is a straight forward process. You receive an instant email confirmation. The prices are the same as if you bought them at the pier in Thongsala. Best to book early if you are planning to leave Koh Phangan after a Full Moon Party.

Friday, 28 October 2016

Hotel Groups in Koh Phangan

Kupu Kupu Beach Villas and Spa in Plaay Laem

Since tourism really got underway in Koh Phangan in the late 1980s the majority of guesthouses, hotels and bungalow resorts in Koh Phangan have been independent operators. In most cases the family owning the resort would also be managing the resort. However over the years this situation has become to change. Leasing resorts has become popular and there is the slow emergence of a new level of capitalism - hotel groups. 

The Full Moon Party has been the making of Haad Rin. It guarantees an influx of thousands of visitors every month including the highly lucrative Christmas and New Year period. This made land on the Haad Rin peninsula valuable as accommodation is needed for the hoards that descend on the party. As a result many of the resorts are leased out by silent owners. A few leases come up for renewal every year, often at increased prices. This has driven up prices, especially during high season and party times. 

The first recognisable chain hotel appeared first in Haad Rin. It was the Best Western Phangan Buri Resort. It tried to bring international standard 3 to 4 star rooms to Koh Phangan. It ran for many years before changing to Buri Beach Resort in 2015. It seems the attraction of chain hotels in Haad Rin faded away or the lease got too high. 

In Thong Nai Pan Noi the hotels did so well that they created the opportunity for sister resorts elsewhere in Thailand. The best example of this is Panviman which started life as a small hotel on the headland that developed into a luxury resort at the same time as launching a Panviman resort in Chiang Mai. 

The same story is repeated by Santhiya Resort that takes over the hill at the northern end of Thong Nai Pan Noi. Its lanna architecture, lavish pool and high end customer service has been replicated in Santhiya Koh Yao Yai and Santhiya Tree in Koh Chang. 

Slightly different is Buri Rasa on Thong Nai Pan Noi. Originally the site was Star Huts, then it got partly taken over by Baan Panburi Village before it eventually became the 4 star Buri Rasa Hotel. Baan Panburi Village was the template to capture the flash packer market who wanted air-con bungalows next to the beach. However, the owner realised that he was going for the cheaper, less lucrative end of the market. He moved Baan Paanburi to Thong Nai Pan Yai where it slowly declines from neglect and will surely soon be replaced. 

The vacated space on Thong Nai Pan Noi was used to build the latest luxury hotel for the area - the Buri Rasa. This is not the first in a chain. Rather it is the second rendition. The original is Buri Rasa Village in Chaweng in Koh Samui. The concept was to aim for the middle-high position. To offer air-con, cable TV, swimming pool, restaurant and gym but to charge in the region of 4,000 Thai Baht a night rather than 20,000 Thai Baht that many big luxury beach hotels charge. 

It looks to be a winning idea as a series of financial shocks since 2008 has diminished the spending power of European visitors to Thailand. The numbers have partly been made up by increased tourism from China but these tourists often come on package tours where the operators bargain heavily for group discounts on mid-range rooms. Aiming for this market seems to make short term sense. 

A fairly recent addition to the chain hotel pool in Koh Phangan is the Kupu Kupu Beach Villas and Spa. It is a smart resort in Plaay Laem on the West Coast. It has 32 luxury villas and 2 suites. The resort combines traditional crafts and materials with cutting edge design. There is La Plage Restaurant that focuses on Thai food and fresh seafood and there is also a spa by L'Occitane. The resort also boasts a beach front pool and its own yacht for group excursions. 

Kupu Kupu has quickly established itself as one of the best hotels on the island. The business model is repeated at Kupu Kupu Barong (Bali) and Kupu Kupu Jimbaran (Indonesia). In each case the resorts have produced traditional resort architecture with a modern twist. They also feature beach locations and extensive spa services by L'Occitane. This chain has successfully captured market share of the high end of the accommodation spectrum in Koh Phangan. 

The last hotel to make this list is Rasananda in Thong Nai Pan Noi. Although this is a one-off hotel with no sister establishments the owner has decided to team up with the management brand of Anantara. They manage several hotels in Bangkok and across Thailand. 

It seems as Koh Phangan develops and moves away from cheap wooden bungalows on the beach it has inevitably attracted outside brands and hotels built to a certain formula for success. There are not any Hyatt hotels or Conrad hotels yet (they are in Koh Samui), but perhaps it is just a matter of time.

Although the traditional hippy backpacker to Koh Phangan will see all this as further evidence of the decline of Koh Phangan as 'cool destination' and how he or she is being priced off the island, other visitors might welcome the attempt to bring better service to the island and maybe who knows proper car rental by a company such as Avis or Hertz and maybe even jet ski hire without the scams.

Thursday, 17 December 2015

Doing Something Different in Koh Phangan

The popularity of Koh Phangan has mushroomed over the last decade. The island has gone from obscure backwater status, to being just as famous (if not more) than neighbouring Koh Samui with its 5 star hotels, airport and ring road. Koh Phangan isn't as developed as Koh Samui, but it does feel sometimes just as touristy. For those wanting to escape the feeling of being caught in a tourist trap here are a few notes about doing something different in Koh Phangan. Let's start by making a list of what is not, in my humble opinion, something different; what lots of people do are (in no particular order):
  1. Learn Muay Thai boxing
  2. Have cookery classes
  3. Have scuba lessons
  4. Go to the Full, Half, Black Moon Parties, or go to any of the big parties
  5. Sleep with a bargirl in Baan Tai
  6. Do an island boat tour
  7. Organise a fishing trip
  8. Extend your visa by pretending to study Thai
  9. Take up kiteboarding
  10. Rent a motorbike and chance riding the roads around Koh Phangan
  11. Go snorkelling at Koh Ma
The list could go on. There is now a lot to do in Koh Phangan. I didn't even mention the water obstacle course at Laem Son Lake, archery, elephant rides, gun range, mountain biking, teeth whitening, free diving, trekking, tattoo possibilities or having a herbal sauna at Wat Pho in Baan Tai. I am impressed by the few wild and crazy souls who approach Koh Phangan with a different mind-set. Those who shun the beaten tracks and the organised activities.
Most recently I read on Facebook about a Latvian man. The picture on Facebook showed him in the sea with a raft he had made himself. It looked like 2 planks and random bits of wood lashed together with a bit of rope. The poster didn't mention his name. What was mentioned was that the guy had managed to get his homemade raft from Koh Samui to Koh Phangan.

While being dangerous and reckless, it shows the Latvian has balls. From the picture I'd say he was in his 50s. He is currently living on the deserted beach of Haad Khontee, next to Haad Rin. He forages for fresh water and fishes for sustenance. Apparently he makes the odd visit to Haad Rin to stock up on coffee and other essentials. Is he off his rocker? Maybe. Is he over-staying his visa? Maybe. Is he doing the usual stuff in Koh Phangan? No.

 A few years ago Greg Spurgin started in Koh Samui and kayaked to Koh Phangan and other places in the Gulf of Thailand. He was clearly an expert kayaker. He circumnavigated Koh Phangan staying in obscure inlets and islands and avoided paying accommodation and the company of others. He stayed one night on the tiny island of Koh Kong near Thong Nai Pan. He made a blog about his journeys on his kayak. It is one of the best records of a holiday to Koh Phangan I have read. He has visited places I suspect very few other Westerners have on and around Koh Phangan. Here is his blog - http://www.gregspurgin.com/thailand/thailandkayak2.htm

You read various things about the treks to be done in Koh Phangan, but you meet few people who have actually done them. It appears the easy option of a taxi or the exciting option of motorbike rental seems to be the winning options for most people.

And then there is the interior of the island. The island is 90% virgin forest. It holds a wealth of flora and fauna (supposedly including deers) that nobody gets to see who are doing the typical beach and party holiday. Thong Nai Pan Magazine blog has some information about snakes, birds and other animals that inhabit the forest.

 The closest to eco-tourism on Koh Phangan is Jungle Flight. It is run by a local farmer. He has ziplines in the jungle just outside of Baan Tai. He also takes people on tours into the jungle and sometimes gets a sighting of a rare bird or monkey.

 I'm not suggesting anybody takes upon themselves to explore the interior independently, and I certainly don't recommend over-staying your visa (the authorities are cracking down on over-stayers), but I would love to read a blog about some wild, romantic soul living in the heart of the forest - foraging and getting a bit Walden. There was a Japanese soldier in the war who had a solo look-out post up a mountain in Koh Phangan. He apparently didn't discover the war had ended for quite a while. If only he had written a blog.

Saturday, 19 September 2015

Review of L’Alcove in Hin Kong

One recently opened restaurant on the west coast of Koh Phangan has quickly made its presence felt on the island. That restaurant is L’Alcove. It is a French run restaurant serving European food on the beach. This restaurant is part of a growing trend on the island away from ‘standard menu’ restaurants that used to cater for backpackers visiting the island.

Two French women have decided to make Koh Phangan their home. They have put a great deal of time and love into creating a friendly little beach bistro in Hin Kong. They try to bring a taste of France to the island with such menu items as duck confit, fresh bread, charcuterie and homemade cheese cake. Naturally there is a wine list. For those whose budget doesn’t quite stretch to French wine there is of course ice cold beer, soft drinks and cocktails.

There is a relaxed and friendly ambience to L’Alcove. There are tables inside the small restaurant as well as on the beach. The restaurant is a basic open structure with wood panelling and thatch roof. The restaurant is airy and light. They have opted for a red theme with the cushion colour and lower wall.

They play a good selection of chilled out tunes. On Friday and Sunday nights there is live music (normally jazz by Katarina) these musical soirees are accompanied by a fire show by the self-dubbed ‘Magical Ninjas’.

The beach where L’Alcove is located is called Hin Kong. It is on the west coast just a few minutes away by motorbike from Thongsala. It is a quiet beach less frequented by tourists and the ideal spot to watch a sunrise and enjoy great food and drink. It is also just up the road from Ananda Wellness Resort. After some rich and delicious French food you can always assuage your guilt by trying some detox.

L’Alcove is open from 8am to 9pm Monday to Sunday.

Contact

Address: 15/1 MOO 6 Hin Kong
Telephone: +66 94 579 3769

Reviews

Location


Saturday, 25 July 2015

Things to do in Haad Rin Other Than Partying


During the 10 days around the Full Moon Party period there are numerous party options in Haad Rin and in Baan Tai. However, there are those who want to do more than just drink buckets during their visit to the beautiful island of Koh Phangan. This post will list a few non-drinking activities to enjoy while staying in Haad Rin.

Football Competition

4 days before the Full Moon Party there is a beach football competition. You can enter as a team or as in individual. The organiser will put solo entrants together to make teams. Contact heinzkaulen@hotmail.com for more details. This is a fun event, and a great way to make new friends before the party. Prizes to be won.

Volleyball Competition

4 days before the FMP. The competition is organised by the same man behind the beach football competition. 2 person teams compete and follow International Beach Volleyball rules. You can enter a team or individually. Even if you haven’t played beach volleyball before it is an easy game to pick up and lots of fun. Prizes to be won.

Boat Tour

There are various boat tours leaving Haad Rin every day. Typical itineraries include Than Sadet waterfall, snorkelling at Koh Ma and visiting the double bay of Thong Nai Pan. Tour prices usually include lunch and soft drinks.

Kiteboarding

There is a good kiteboarding school in Baan Tai near the pier. It is a branch of Kiterboarding Asia (KBA) and has certified teachers and all the equipment needed.This sport involves flying a kite and using the propulsion from the wind to surf over the sea on a board similar to a snowboard or large water ski.

Trek to Haad Yuan

There is an excellent trek from Haad Rin to the small and remote beach of Haad Yuan. The trek 6.7 km trek takes about 2 hours and includes a hill climb and great coastal views. This is a chance to see something of the jungle scenery on the island. For more information see http://www.haadrinhotelreviews.info/haad-rin-to-haad-yuan-trek/

Thai Massage

There are numerous places in Haad Rin with spas offering a range of services including Thai massage, oil massage and herb steam sauna. For those interested in holistic treatment, meditation, Pilates and yoga there are a number of detox/health/meditation centres around Koh Phangan. The closest is the Sanctuary on Haad Thian on the east coast. You can get there by longtail boat from Haad Rin.

Banana Boat

Yes, there are fun rides available around Haad Rin Bay. You probably haven’t done a banana boat since you were kid. Why not have another go!

Jetski

Don’t rent jetskis. There are too many horror stories of tourists being held to ransom to get their passport back after ‘damage’ has been spotted on the jetski. The fumes aren’t very nice for swimmers either.

Teeth Whitening

Don’t do this either. The chances of the person administrating the laser equipment having any training or the equipment being checked for safety are very, very low.

Tattoo

You can find tattoo artists in Haad Rin that use machines as well as the traditional bamboo hand method. Think carefully about how you want to permanently mark your skin. Probably best not to choose a tat when drunk.

Teach English

There is a hostel in Baan Tai called Echo Beach Backpackers that run English lessons for Thais. This is a great volunteering opportunity.  Opportunities for those with or without TESOL certificate are available. They want you, however, to commit to 2 months teaching a couple of hours a day.

Fishing

You can find deep sea fishing trips advertised in Haad Rin. For freshwater fishing check out  Palida Resort in Baan Tai (http://www.baantai.info/palidaresort.html). For those just wanting to take a rod and stand on some rocks by the sea you can find lots of fishing equipment in Thongsala. Ask in a shop for the best fishing spots.

Rent a Moped and See the Island

One popular activity in Haad Rin is to rent a cheap moped and tour the island. It is a small island and much of it can be seen in one day. You can take the road over the mountains to Thong Nai Pan. You can head for Thongsala and check out Walking Street, the night market as well as stock up on essentials at Tesco and Makro. Another good bike journey is up the West Coast taking in the Chinese Temple and then snorkelling at Koh Ma.

A bike gives you freedom and massively increases your options for activities. However, drive carefully (and not fast) and beware of the pitfall of coming off the bike, injuring yourself, and paying over-the-odds to fix the bike. Car rental is also available in Haad Rin.

This list you should hopefully get you thinking about what else Haad Rin and Koh Phangan has to offer in terms of holiday experiences other than big outdoor parties.

Saturday, 21 February 2015

The Attraction of Baan Tai


The first time I stayed at Baan Tai I couldn’t quite understand the attraction of the place. Why would Princess Eugenie choose to stay at Baan Tai rather than at one of the luxury hotels at Thong Nai Pan Noi? If she wanted to party why didn’t she stay at Haad Rin or the nearby Leela Beach?

Baan Tai is a pleasant stretch of white sand. The 7-11 on the corner with the Thong Nai Pan Road is a great shop with lots of cheap eats and drinks. The red light zone at night has its obvious appeal for men. Resorts like Milky Bay and Lime n Soda are good mid-range options. There are plenty of bars and small restaurants to check out.

But the choice of places to eat and drink is not as enticing as in Haad Rin. The bigger problem is the beach. Half the year (during low tidal months from May to October) the sea remains shallow for 200 meters until you get to the coral reefs. While those who like to snorkel might appreciate the chance to see marine life, most of us just want a sea that is warm, that has sand under foot and that gets deep at a reasonable distance from the beach.

In terms of beach quality Baan Tai is not as good as east coast beaches such as Haad Thian and Than Sadet or north coast beaches such as Bottle Beach. If you choose a beach holiday than surely the quality of the beach is the primary consideration? Perhaps not. Baan Tai has other advantages that seem to weigh more heavily for tourists. The most important advantage of Baan Tai is that it is well connected to the best facilities and amenities on the island.

Baan Tai is located on a good road that links the main town of Thongsala and the main tourist centre of Haad Rin. You can get to either place easily by rented motorbike or by one of the frequent pick up taxis plying the main road. In Baan Tai and Thongsala you find the best shops on the island. There are plenty of shops for clothes and souvenirs. There is a fishing shop. There is Baan Computer and of course there are the big supermarkets such as Tesco Lotus, C Market, Big A and Makro.


Those who like eating out there is Fisherman’s Restaurant, Food Factory, Café Amazon, Fresh Sushi, Outlaws Salon, Hell’s Kitchen, The Lounge, The Pier Restaurant and Ando Loco. You can get everything from fresh fish to great fast food; from cheap Thai curry to pizza.

The same goes for nightlife. There are bars and clubs such as Loi Lay Floating Bar, Amnesia and Ku Club that have DJ music as well as White Rabbit and Outlaws Salon that have bands. There are several hostels that get busy around Full Moon and who throw pre-party events. And then there are big outdoor raves such as the Half Moon Party, Jungle Experience and the Black Moon Party. For the young who come to Koh Phangan to drink and socialise Baan Tai is an excellent holiday destination.

While the minimum stay requirement for the Full Moon Party also applies to Baan Tai accommodation the area has plenty of cheap places to stay such as Hacienda Backpackers, Palida Resort, O Sole Mio and My Palace. There are plenty of dorm beds. Many of the resorts have swimming pools and are next to the beach. There is little beachfront accommodation in Haad Rin; the place gets very noisy during the run-up to the party, and few places have swimming pools at Haad Rin. You get more for your money by staying at Baan Tai even if your main holiday goal is to do the FMP.

And of course if you want to risk your health there are a dozen bars with girls for rent.

When you put all of this together it becomes less of a mystery as to why people (including British royalty) choose Baan Tai rather than a more picturesque beach with better swimming.

Thursday, 6 November 2014

Parties Stopped in Koh Phangan

For years local residents in Baan Tai have been asking the police to do something about the noise being generated by the all-night parties in the area. Their pleas have fallen on deaf ears. Ever since the early 2000s when the Full Moon Party became a world-famous event, numerous other monthly parties have sprung up both small and fairly large. Most of these have been in Baan Tai. The combination of a military junta crackdown on illegal activities as well as the adverse publicity generated by the murder of two young Brits, Hannah Witheridge and David Miller on the neighbouring island of Koh Tao in September, 2014 has forced the police on Koh Phangan to shut down all the parties except for the Full Moon Party.

Until this point it seemed that every year a new regular party was added to the list. The Half Moon Party, Jungle Experience and Shiva Moon Party have been joined by Rhythm and Sands, Loy Lai Floating Bar, Ku Klub and Sramanora Waterfall Blue and Green Party. All in the Baan Tai / Baan Kai area and all going on all night. While the noise is not great for those trying to sleep, the legal issue is the selling of alcohol after the curfew of 1am.

Thailand is the land of the free and anyone who has stayed in the country for any length of time will notice that the alcohol curfew is only selectively enforced. This is true both in tourist hotspots and in less visited areas of Thailand. However, it is a law that gives the police the legal authority to shut down bars, nightclubs, street vendors and all night raves.

Pressure, no doubt, has been asserted from the top to do something about the parties. The interim government led by General Prayuth has been keen to enforce laws and curb the increase in corruption. They have been tackling all kinds of abuse such as Jet Ski scammers, illegal permits for sun loungers in Phuket and foreigners using tourist visas to work in Thailand. Those people who thought that the cash generated by the Full Moon Party made Koh Phangan immune to the clean-up campaigns appear to be wrong for the moment. Both Jungle Experience and the Half Moon Party were stopped by the police.

Their reasons were that the alcohol laws were being broken and that they didn’t have the man power to police the events. It cannot be ignored that these actions happened shortly after the double murder in Koh Tao. It has caught many by surprise that the tragic attack of two young Brits has attracted so much international press coverage. Thailand’s image has been dented by not only the awful crime but also the ensuing police investigation which been marred by allegations of framing two Burmese workers and ‘fixing’ the evidence. The British police observers in the area have not made any comments about the regime’s insistence that the case is closed to everyone’s satisfaction. However, a report from the British police into the affair due when they return might further embarrass officials in Thailand.

Meanwhile the plan is to limit the damage caused by the incident. All-night parties in Koh Tao and Koh Phangan are off until further notice. It is only the Full Moon Party that has been allowed to continue since it already has a large police presence. Some bars are still running DJ events but these are small gatherings.

Despite these measures tourist numbers are seriously down on last year’s figures on the islands. Tonight is Loy Kratong full moon party. Authorities expect 20,000 revellers. That remains to be seen; and anyway, these TAT numbers are generally pulled out of nowhere.

The question that remains is if the party curfew in Baan Tai and in Koh Tao will continue for very long. Those involved in the parties will no doubt be keen to get the parties back on. They make profits for numerous people and keep many ex-pats on the islands. The key moment will be when the current junta is replaced by an elected government. If the parties aren’t back with a change of government they are gone for good.

This will have a discernible effect on the demographics for Koh Phangan visitors as well as the number of ex-pats living semi-permanently on the island. The mood of Koh Phangan will noticeably change if party-goers come in fewer numbers. The Full Moon Party might continue to attract thousands but many just come for the party and many only stay a couple of nights. The other parties in Baan Tai kept a steady trickle of young people booking hostels and spending thousands of Baht on alcohol and banned substances. Time will tell if Koh Phangan has undergone a sea-change.

Saturday, 30 August 2014

Thailand Tourism under the Junta



Even those people with a short memory will recall the military takeover in 2006 in Thailand. It followed a similar pattern to the present coup (2008). In that instance the establishment agitated for several months to oust the popular Thaksin government before the military finally stepped in to prevent the country falling into supposed ‘anarchy’.

It is a fair guess that the latest coup will continue to mirror the last one: namely, that the military will hold power for about a year before installing a royalist and democrat government. This government will fall at the first election (despite a raft of electoral reforms) and some form of Shinawatra government will seize power much to the chagrin of the Bangkok elite.

No doubt the present junta are aware of history, and are more determined than ever to stop history repeating itself. The electoral commission is looking to change voting boundaries to weaken the northern stronghold of Pheu Thai. At the same time they are conducting a vigorous enquiry into the rice pledging scheme to discredit key members of the last government.

The military government are also addressing the huge gap that exists between the written law and the way the law is applied. It is this grey area that has been a breeding ground for corruption and scams. This grey area exists in virtually every developing country; but Thailand now has a robust and growing economy. The country has aspirations to make it into the league of countries such as Singapore and Mexico that in many ways are the equal of their ‘developed’ counterparts.

MPs are being asked to declare their assets. Road rules are being enforced. Buildings that have been erected without planning permission are being torn down. The alcohol curfew is being enforced in pleasure centres such as Pattaya. The rule about foreign ownership of land is being scrutinised. Foreign nationals doing repeated visa runs to neighbouring countries to work illegally are being denied entry. Taxi drivers in Koh Samui are being forced to use meters. Those renting jet skis are under pressure to stop fleecing tourists. The list goes on. The message is that Thailand is cleaning up its act, and undesirables beware – they will be found and dealt with.

You don’t need to believe in conspiracy theories to see how many of these measures will ruin the income streams of important people in the country who benefit from bribes, drugs, illegal employment, human trafficking and cheating tourists. The military will do well to manage itself when surely several of its own ranks are involved in the corruption. Meanwhile the Shinawatras remain in the wings promising a return to a government that turns a blind eye to a wide range of rackets.

Thailand Authority of Tourism (TAT) has been busy in its own inept way to put a positive spin on events happening in Thailand. They have consistently downplayed the drop in tourist numbers and have never mentioned that those who did visa runs would also be part of previous dubious statistics. Their latest drive is ‘Thainess Year’. They are also hoping to lure the Chinese and Europeans back with 60 day visas. The incompetence of TAT has always made those who know more than a little about Thailand laugh. They seem the apotheosis of ‘Thainess’ as perceived by many non-Thais.

Many ‘respectable’ tourists and ex-pats applaud the junta’s efforts to curb the prostitution areas in Bangkok, Koh Samui, Phuket and Pattaya; to regulate the bars; and to deport foreign criminals. The high spending and short stay tourists that the authorities want to encourage are not as numerous as TAT imagined. They are the first to cancel holidays where there is political disturbance. This minority of visitors to Thailand have always borne the brunt of the unfair dual pricing system. Thailand is looking more expensive, less safe and less inviting than other countries in the region with beaches, luxury hotels, temples and shopping malls.

Such are market forces that the reduced tourist numbers mean that bargains are to be found in Thailand – rooms in 3 and 4 star hotels can be had for a big discount. Villas can be rented cheaply, and for those with a penchant for risk, villas can be bought for big reductions.

Backpackers over the last 10 years have consistently got a worse deal. For the same money a few years ago they would have got a room in a guest house or a bungalow, now they can only afford a dorm bed. Weed is still 500 Thai Baht but the bags are getting smaller – it is nearly cheaper to ‘smoke’ in Europe than in Thailand for those not buying large amounts. With the border visa being reduced to 15 days the average backpacker is discouraged from staying long in the Kingdom. They do Bangkok and the Full Moon Party and then are off.

Thailand is often called ‘The Land of the Free’. It is hoped that the worst examples of cronyism, nepotism, corruption and vote rigging are addressed; at the same time the profits to be had from tourism are wrested from the hands of the few and a better balance of high-end and backpacker tourism is established. If tourists were ripped off less, fined less, and small local businesses were allowed to compete with big tourist companies on a more level playing field there is a good chance that TAT could go back to the irrelevance it has always been. It is also necessary for voters in Thailand to cast their ballot responsibly and bring in politicians not bent on making a personal fortune and destroying the opposition.


Friday, 16 May 2014

Want to Try a New Beach? The Answer is Mae Haad

People often come back again and again to Koh Phangan. It is that sort of place. Initially people tend to return to the same places where they first found white sand, sunshine and friendly locals. They build an emotional attachment to a particular beach, and even tend to get quite possessive about that beach. During wet and cold Mondays at work it is comforting to know that your Koh Phangan beach is sunny, the sea warm and the beers cold and cheap. There is a hammock with your name on it waiting for you.

However, there comes a stage where horizons expand and the regular returnee to Koh Phangan thinks about other places and possible activities. I still haven’t climbed up Khao Ra; I still haven’t dived at Sail Rock; I still haven’t taken that trip to Ang Thong Marine Park I always wanted to do are all common thoughts from those who come to Koh Phangan to relax and escape the world for a little while.

One way to both relax and gain a sense of achievement is to opt for a few nights at Mae Haad beach. It is a place name that is infrequently used since most people are more focussed on the snorkelling around the small island of Koh Ma. Mae Haad is the beach next to Koh Ma. It is the entry point to the marine park and a great beach in its own right.

Whereas other west coast beaches such as Haad Yao and Haad Salad are famous for idyllic locations, white sand and cheap bungalows, Mae Haad remains a relatively obscure spot. There are boat tour groups that come to the beach but few people consider staying at Mae Haad.

That is a shame because the beach offers accommodation, bars and restaurants. And best of all it offers two beaches – the coastal beach and the beach created by the sandbank connecting Koh Ma to the headland. The geography of the area resembles Nang Yuan in Koh Tao. There is something special about a sandbank that offers ocean vistas from both sides.

And of course it is not only the spectacular beach scenery that is good about Mae Haad, it also has the best snorkelling in Koh Phangan. Just a short swim from the shore is a protected marine park where you can spot angelfish, banner fish and hermit crabs. If you spend enough time in the water you can possibly spot rarer marine life such as rays, turtles and cuttlefish.

Being right next to a great snorkelling location on holiday gives you the chance to pursue an activity without the hassle of catching taxis and having to dress up. No valuable time is wasted leaving the beach.

You can find a basic fan bungalow for about 300 Thai Baht a night in Mae Haad at Island View Cabana, Mae Haad View Resort, Why Not Bungalows and Royal Orchid Resort. There are also plenty of mid-range options in the 1,000 Thai Baht a night range. For those looking for luxury there is Mae Haad Bay Resort that features an impressive communal swimming pool as well as private pool and private Jacuzzi villas.

The nightlife at Mae Haad consists of a few local bars playing Bob Marley music such as Rolling Stone and Roots Corner. Entertainment here is laid back and a throwback to the 1990s. This is not a techno party beach, nor is it a New Age therapy beach, but it could well become your new favourite place in Koh Phangan.

Thursday, 20 February 2014

Suratthani Airport

Surat Thani is a small regional airport. Most of the flights are to and from Don Mueang airport in Bangkok.

The airport is about 20 minutes outside of Surat Thani Town. There are 3 ways to make this journey: bus service by Phanthip company (100B per person), by Tuk-Tuk (200B per person) or by private taxi (600B). Do bear in mind that the Phanthip bus needs to be booked in advance and runs at fixed times (including 12 noon and 3 pm). Ask at your hotel or the Phanthip office on the Taladmai Road. This is the main road where the buses drops off and pick up for the ferry terminals for Koh Samui and Koh Phangan.

The airport has two storeys. Arrivals are on the ground floor and departures on the second floor. On the ground floor there are three coffee outlets and a counter for buying bus tickets onwards. Otherwise there is not much at the airport in terms of retail outlets in the arrivals section. Upstairs there are shops and two restaurants. The BB cafe is small and serves snacks and coffee. The other restaurant is larger and is run by the Sawasdee Group. They have a full menu range and serve alcohol and other drinks. The prices aren't cheap compared to the rest of Thailand, but fairly cheap as far as airports go. The noodle soup costs 100 THB, the American sandwich 110 THB, a fruit juice 50 THB and a small Singha beer is 100 THB.

Suratthani Airport is a small regional airport that is not big and not particularly busy. This is the main advantage of the airport – it is free of the stress associated with big airports. However, it lacks facilities. The good news is that it is relatively close to Suratthani City - indeed closer than the train station (which is in fact in another town!). The Air Asia flights between Suratthani and Don Mueang in Bangkok are only 2,000 Thai Baht and much better value than the Bangkok Airways flights from Koh Samui. Until Koh Phangan Airport is built Surat Airport will remain the best value airport for getting to and from the island.

Saturday, 16 November 2013

Bookings for Christmas 2013


I am not going to bore you with a graph showing visitor numbers to Thailand. Since 1998 the Kingdom claims it has seen year on year increases in visitor numbers. Starting in 1998 with 7.76 million foreign arrivals to 2012 when 22.3 million came to the Land of Smiles.

Many involved in tourism in Thailand feel that the good times will never end. Despite blips caused by the SARS epidemic and the Bird Flu epidemic, the flooding in 2011, the tsunami in 2004 and the coup in 2006 Thailand is more popular than ever. The massive downswing in the world economy in 2008 might have seen a drop in visitors from Europe and the US but it looks like the shortfall was made up for by large numbers of Russian and Chinese tourists. It is thus curious that authorities have been clamping down on Russians and Koreans working as translators and tour guides illegally. The assumption that they are taking jobs away from Thai people is spurious.

This year (2013) has seen the government propose another airport tax to cover unpaid medical expenses. It turns out that most of these expenses are from illegal immigrants. The policy is unclear as if the payment would provide any health cover and how the money would be distributed.

More seriously the Shinawatra government has been trying to push through an amnesty bill that would allow Thaksin Shinawatra to return to the Kingdom. Nothing is more guaranteed to stir up the feelings of the divided political activists in Bangkok and the country as large.

To a casual observer, it seems like the powers that be are testing whether they can do anything to stop the escalating tourist numbers. It also seems that inflation can’t curb the influx of visitors.

However, I’ve been checking the Christmas and New Year bookings in Koh Phangan this year and it is clear that Christmas bookings are down, but New Year is sold out as usual.

Although there is a Haad Rin ‘Moon’ party at Christmas, it is clear that Christmas is more of a family time for hotel bookings. These people are staying way from Koh Phangan this year. Maybe the problems in Bangkok are causing this, or perhaps the continued squeeze caused by the rocky economic recovery in Europe.

In contrast the young people, the backpackers, the gap –year people and the ravers are undeterred by the politics in the capital and the rising prices.

The trouble for Koh Phangan is that it is becoming too dependent on the Full Moon Party for its revenue. If something were to happen to the party then the visitor numbers could half within a month. Last New Year a young Brit was shot. More such tragedies could conceivably close the party down. After all, this is Thailand – not the most predictable place in the world.

And by the way the fish and chips in the place in the photo is not bad at all.

Thursday, 15 August 2013

East Coast vs West Coast

The east and west coasts of Koh Phangan vary considerably in terms of geography and culture. It is instructive to compare these two areas of Koh Phangan.
East Coast: no corals, good swimming and boat access

The east coast of Koh Phangan is the most mountainous region of the island and contains the most remote and inaccessible beaches. Than Sadet is reached by a rough track (that is being improved); Haad Nam Tok is down a very rough path and has only camping; Haad Yuan East is only reached by jungle foot path or boat; and the same is the case for Haad Yao and Haad Thian.

And yet these beaches are gorgeous. They have perfect white sands and are ideal for swimming as the seabed is sandy and they get deep fairly quickly. There aren’t any coral reefs on the east coast and there isn’t a large tidal difference. For these reasons the east coast beaches are often considered better than the west coast ones. And, of course, the two beaches of Thong Nai Pan are often cited as the best on the island.

The potential to develop the east coast as a major up-market tourist destination has been realized in Thong Nai Pan Noi; behind the scenes negotiations are on-going to develop other east coast beaches. This is all underlined by the placement of Koh Phangan airport at Than Prapad on the east coast.
West Coast: good roads, coral reefs, poor swimming in the sea

The west coast in contrast does not receive the same spot light in terms of tourism. Many of the beaches on the west coast have large tidal variations. From May to October those wanting a paddle in the sea need to walk out a long way. The beaches are very long on the west coast. The bay containing Hin Kong and Wok Tum is the biggest on the island. Much of it turns into mud flats that form a habitat for birds and other animals. Haad Yao on the west coast translates as long beach because it is 1 km long.

There is about 15 kilometers of coral reef running parallel to the west coast from Haad Chao Phao to Mae Haad. It is a big draw for the area as it attracts snorkelers. However, for many it is just an annoyance as the sand gets rough as it is mixed with dead coral. It also creates a rocky sea bed in parts that makes getting in and out of the water uncomfortable. Reviews of popular beaches on the west coast such as Haad Yao and Haad Salad make frequent reference to the dead coral in the sand and the problem with swimming in the sea.

Despite the success of Yao and Salad the beaches of the west attract fewer tourists than Thong Nai Pan, Than Sadet and the party beaches in the south (Haad Rin and Ban Tai). The west coast is flatter, less scenic but more convenient. On this side of the island are lots of bungalows and houses for long term let. This has been the traditional ex-pat area, away from the holiday makers. Places like Nai Wok, Sri Thanu, Wok Tum and Hin Kong are just a few minutes away from all the facilities and amenities of Thongsala. If you are living and working on the island it makes sense to live on the west coast. They also experience less power cuts, water shortages and have the lowest rainfall.

The west coast of Koh Phangan has more markets, temples and places of interest to visit including the island’s largest lake, Laem Son. It is an area easier to get around, to beach hop. You feel more connected with the rest of the island when you stay on a west coast beach. Staying on east coast beaches give you a feeling of being cut-off, isolated. There are few things nearby that are easy to visit and people tend to stay put and just enjoy the beach.

The prices for cheap bungalows are about the same on both coasts. Camping on Haad Nam Tok is the cheapest option but virtually nobody gets to this beach in the east. Haadlad Prestige (Salad beach) Mae Haad Bay Resort (Mae Haad), See Through Boutique Resort (Haad Yao) and Kupu Kupu Phangan Beach Villa (Plai Laem) offer luxury but they cannot compare in either price or style with Santhiya, Rasananda or Panviman in Thong Nai Pan Noi.

It is worth trying to spend time on both sides of the island just so you can enjoy two different experiences and perspectives of Koh Phangan. Probably the side you like best says something about your personality.

Sunday, 14 July 2013

Bushmeat

Local markets are fascinating places in Thailand. These are groups of small stalls that are intended for Thai consumers with little money to spend. The items are often parceled into small servings to reduce cost. For many of these items the price is fixed or the price is at least commonly known. Stall owners are not used to dealing with foreigners and probably couldn’t explain in English what a lot of their wares are.

The market running along the top road of Thongsala that starts at the large bar on the corner of the main road is very much a local market.

I have been down the stalls many times over the years and I have purchased the odd vegetable or bag of bean sprouts. The other day I was with a Thai friend. We were strolling down the line of stalls, killing time. I spotted something strange in a plastic bag. It looked like, no it couldn’t be, yes it was…

A rat.



My Thai friend asked the stall holder, and yes it was a rat. In fact a whole stack of grilled rats. They are very common on the island and for those old skool Koh Phanganers living in the jungle and using a handmade rifle grilled rat makes a good meal with a bit of rice and no doubt a liberal amount of chilli.

Getting over the initial shock, it makes sense to me to eat ‘bushmeat’ in Koh Phangan. The animals are straight from the jungle and not carriers of disease; also, one hopes, not rubbish scavengers. There is apparently a rodent bigger than a rat found not only in Koh Phangan but all over Thailand that is something of a delicacy.



The picture above is of turtles in the market place in Thongsala. Turtles are meant to be protected animals as their numbers have declined sharply. Many people fear certain species could soon go extinct. I was surprised to see turtles in the market. Maybe I shouldn’t be since turtle soup is a Chinese favourite.

I have never seen deer meat. I presume the injunction to not kill the royal animal generally prevents open sale of the meat.

I have seen locals chowing down on giant lizard and I’m sure snake is also sometimes on the menu.

It might all sound a bit grim but until fairly recently Koh Phangan was a remote part of the Kingdom that did a bit of trade in coconut and squid but whose inhabitants were mostly self-sufficient. They lived off the land and the sea. That is real island life.

Thursday, 4 July 2013

Bantai Revisited



Bantai is now the second most popular beach in Koh Phangan after Haad Rin. And just like Haad Rin just down the road, its popularity is largely based on the party business.

Over the past few years Bantai parties have dramatically increased in number. The Jungle Experience and the Half Moon Party has been joined by Rhythm and Sands. There are also the after parties at Baan Sabai. Last year saw the opening of Loi Lay Floating Bar that holds regular DJ events. Most recently the Ku Club opened its doors offering supposedly Ibiza style events on the beach.

The party goers are flocking to Bantai. The long beach has some good hotels and resorts. It also has plenty of budget backpacker places.

Another draw for Bantai is that it is located on the main road to Thongsala. There are plenty of bars and restaurants along this road including the small but infamous red-light district in Koh Phangan. The less seedy bars have live sports and some have live music.

However, putting all this aside, what is Bantai beach like? Well it is a beautiful long stretch of white sand. The sand is fine and is mostly kept clean. The biggest problem is the tide. There is a seasonal tidal shift that affects the waters around Koh Phangan. The high tidal months are October to April. At other times the water recedes a long way at low tide.

The photographs above were taken from the Lime N Soda Resort in June. The tide gets really low on Bantai beach during June and July. Indeed sometimes it’s awkward for big boats to get into the main ferry pier just down the coast in Thong Sala during this time.

At the time the pictures were taken you had to walk 1 kilometer out from the beach before it became deep enough to swim. There are also lots of rocks just below the surface that can cause injury.

Considering July and August are the high season for the island, I would suggest that many people who don’t choose the beach exclusively for dancing to techno and trance will end up disappointed with Bantai.

The best all-year-round swimming beaches in Koh Phangan are found on the East Coast of the island where the tidal changes have minimal impact. The most famous of these beaches are Thong Nai Pan Noi and Yai and Than Sadet.

Sunday, 16 June 2013

Monitor Lizards in Bottle Beach


The picture is a scan of a photograph taken at Bottle Beach in 1999. I remember the occasion fairly clearly. One of the Thais working at Cookies had caught a giant monitor lizard and had put it in a wicker cage.

The lizard had awful smelling breath. Its tongue flicked menacingly through the gaps in the cage. From head to tail the creature was nearly a full arm-span in length.

The lad who had caught the lizard was full of pride and glee. He kept making the joke that it was going to be chicken curry tonight.

That same holiday we saw more giant monitor lizards sunning themselves on the rocks below the Panviman swimming pool in Thong Nai Pan Noi.

It seemed at that time that these harmless (if left alone) but nasty-looking creatures were all over the island.

In 2008 I encountered a group of Thais and Burmese on a building site. They were a friendly bunch and I sat and had a glass of lao khao with them (Laotian white spirits). They also offered me some sun dried meat. Much to their amusement I declined their offer when they had managed to explain to me that the meat was lizard.

Since that time I have spotted fewer and fewer monitors around the island.

It is tempting to suggest that as beaches such as Bottle Beach and Thong Nai Pan Noi got more developed the lizards had less space to lounge and prey on insects (and whatever else they eat) in peace and quiet.

There are also deer on the island around Than Sadet. They were released as a tribute to the King who loved the waterfall next to Haad Than Sadet. I’ve never seen these deer. I hope the East Coast changes caused by the new Airport don’t reduce the numbers of deer.

The challenge for Koh Phangan is to develop its infrastructure and tourist industry without damaging its beautiful natural environment.

Tuesday, 30 April 2013

Bangkok to Koh Phangan Travel Prices May 2013


I recently made the trip from Bangkok to Koh Phangan. I stayed one night in Bangkok and then took the Air Asia flight from Don Muang Airport to Suratthani Airport.

The biggest city in the south of Thailand is Suratthani. It is a travel hub. It has an airport, a train station and a port. However, none of these travel options are close to the city part of Suratthani. This means you always have to factor in the time and money needed to get between the city, the port, the bus station, the train station and the airport.

Suratthani is on the main north-south train line. The station is actually in the nearby town of Punpin. It is about an hour away by minibus.

Songserm has a pier in Suratthani; however, the other ferry companies use piers in the Donsak region that is about an hour away by minibus.

All of this means that the Bangkok Airways flight between Suvarnabhumi and Koh Samui remains an attractive, if more expensive, option. It also involves less moving from one form of transport to another.

I took the Air Asia flight to Suratthani and then the Raja Car Ferry from Donsak to Thongsala in Koh Phangan. It takes a few hours more but it saves nearly 2,000 Thai Baht, and makes the journey possible in a day rather than the over-night options of train and boat or bus and boat.

At the airport

I arrived at Suvarnabhumi Airport on Saturday 27th April.2013 at 7.30 pm. I had to wait 1 hour in an immigration queue. Most obvious were large groups of Chinese people on tours. None of them were filling the arrival/departure cards in correctly and this slowed the process down even though 95% of the police immigration desks were open. Queues reached down the ramp into the main concourse. In fairness to the airport staff they set up a snaking queue system that made the process slightly less chaotic.

Prices

Surat Thani Airport to Koh Phangan by bus/raja ferry = 445 THB per person

Suvarnabhumi airport to Central Bangkok by taxi from Kiosk: 400 THB fare, 50 THB service charge, 70 THB toll (total cost 520 THB).

Suvarnabhumi airport to Central Bangkok by meter taxi: Approximately 220 THB fare, 50 THB service charge, 70 toll THB (total cost 340THB). I got the taxi at the kiosk but the guy decided to do it by the meter anyway.

Saturday, 23 February 2013

Raja Car Ferry


The Raja Car Ferry is in many ways the life blood of Koh Phangan. It is the only car ferry serving the island. As such it is responsible for bringing in many things to the island which allow it to cater to hundreds of thousands of visitors every year.

In 1981 the Samui-Kanom Ferry Co., Ltd was set up. It was only later the company changed its name to Raja. The company found quick success setting up car ferry services between the mainland of Thailand (Donsak) and both Koh Phangan and Koh Samui. The company capitalized on the booming tourist industry developing on both islands with its need for vehicles, motorbikes, imported food goods, furniture, electrical equipment and so on.

Now there are 40 boats in the Raja fleet. They all have plenty of sitting space, a bar, a restaurant, a shop and lots of deck space. You can always find a chair to sit on.



The car rental business in Koh Phangan is still very much in its infancy. It is thus a big advantage to be able to bring your own car to Koh Phangan. Another big benefit of the Raja is that it is a big boat that is more stable in the water. It is the ferry that is least likely to cause you to be sea sick. The Lomprayah tends to bounce through rough waters. The combination of hung-over full moon party people and choppy waters leads to an unpleasant Lomprayah catamaran service.

Raja Car Ferry has teamed up with Air Asia to provide one of several fly and ferry services connecting Bangkok and Koh Phangan. Outside Suratthani Airport there is a bus waiting for passengers disembarking from the Bangkok flight (Don Muang). The combined bus and ferry ticket to Thongsala in Koh Phangan costs 420 Thai Baht. Tickets can be bought in the airport as well as outside by the bus rank.

The 7am flight from Don Muang arrives at Suratthani at 8am. You then transfer to a bus and then the Raja Car Ferry. The boat leaves at 10am and arrives in Thongsala at 12.30. Thus, the trip from Bangkok to Thongsala takes 5 and a half hours. The afternoon Air Asia flight leaves Bangkok at 14.35 and gets to Suratthani at 15.35. This connects with the 18.00 Raja that gets into Koh Phangan at 20.30. There are few taxis waiting to meet this ferry. You will be unable to get a shared taxi to anywhere other than Haad Rin at this time of night.

A good place to stay in Thongsala is Buakao Inn. It is a short walk from the pier and has clean comfortable rooms. Downstairs there is an excellent bar and restaurant.

Overall, Raja is a reliable and comfortable ferry service to Koh Phangan. It is excellent value for bringing small motorbikes onto the island - only 280 Thai Baht. The only drawback to the Raja is that it takes 2 and a half hours to ply the route between Thongsala and Donsak on the mainland. Lomprayah catamarans are much quicker vessels

Raja Ferry Timetable


Koh Phangan Donsak
5.00 7.30
7.00 9.30
10。00 12.30
13。00 15.30
17.00 19.30

Donsak Koh Phangan
7.00 9.30
10.00 12.30
13.00 15.30
16.00 18.30
18.00 20.30

Prices


Foot passenger - 220 Thai Baht
Monk and student in uniform - 11o Thai Baht
Children under 110 cm - 110 Thai Baht
Bicycle / small motorbike with rider - 280 Thai Baht
Large motorbike with rider - 460 Thai Baht
Car with driver - 620 Thai Baht

Sunday, 3 February 2013

Jungle Bar Closes


It is very much in the nature of businesses in Koh Phangan to change hands periodically. In many cases the land is leased and when the business stutters it is eventually sold to another party who re-names and launches.

There are, of course, very successful ventures like Panviman (Thong Nai Pan), Haad Yao Divers and Drop in Bar (Haad Rin) that seem solid business ventures and are not likely to close. In Haad Rin the lease costs are very high and one bad Full Moon Party might be all it needs to make the leaseholders walk away. By many Koh Phangan landowners it is seen as the safest option to lease land for resorts, bars, shops, spas and restaurants rather than attempt to develop a business themselves.

Another common story is that a place was successful for several years but hits a decline. This is the tale with the Jungle Bar in Thong Nai Pan Noi. It started in 1997. I remember it was my birthday and I went there to have a couple of cocktails. The lad serving us had no idea how to make our drinks. Still I liked the place. It had plenty of relaxed seating on mats as well as a couple of hammocks. The nightclub lighting and the feeling of being on the edge of a jungle all made it a cool place to me.

Now fast forward to 2007, ten years later. The Jungle Bar’s Monday night is packed throughout the high seasons and still busy at other times. The bar has become something of an institution, and the Thai couple running it minor celebrities.

For a long time it was DJ Ton on the decks. It went from vinyl to CD and never really made it to computer mixing. He played all the crowd favorites and often ended the night with an hour of hard and loud techno. People would get drums out and bang along. From 1am to 5am there would be continual whoops from enthusiastic revelers.

The success of the Jungle Bar in Thong Nai Pan Noi had one obvious consequence – the setting up of another nightclub bar on the beach. A good business idea in Thailand needs to be copied. The Hideaway got going around 2006 and had a big Friday night party.

The other consequence was that Noi got a bit of a reputation as a party beach; so much so that a German business started having a 10 day minimal techno festival every summer. They bought with them a large group of Europeans, most of who stayed at Baan Panburi, as well as big name DJs.

The loud noise put people off staying at Sandee Bungalow. The other dubious types of behavior that goes with a party scene put off the traditional visitors to TNP – the hippies. Prices and accommodation quality both started to go up.

Then the beach took the next leap to a high end resort beach. And it wasn’t long before the party scene evaporated. It was this change of scene that caused the Hideaway to close in 2011 and for the Jungle Bar to finally bite the dust in 2013.

The lease has been allowed to run out. The Jungle Bar will be torn down and replaced with small units for rental as businesses. The land is next to the new Buri Rasa ‘Village Square’ and could well be used to create a profitable business that caters to a different and richer clientele.

The story of the Jungle Bar has no doubt similarities to the history of many businesses in Koh Phangan and Thailand. The country is moving fast and so is the business scene. 


Sunday, 4 November 2012

Jungle Flight


For many people the place at the start of the long concrete stretch of road that winds down the big hill on the road from Thong Nai Pan to Bantai was thought of as the ‘bird and monkey’ place.

I know the chap living there. Chai is friendly and always spots me when I go past on my motorbike. His is the type of business that I really want to see succeed on the island. He has built it up a business from nothing without a massive cash inflow from an outside investor.

I think he has gone one step closer to making his small tourist business viable. He has rebranded for a start. It is no longer ‘bird and monkey’ rather it is ‘Jungle Flight’.

Tourists, especially those staying at Thong Nai Pan, have plenty of disposable income to spend on activities while on holiday. Chai has aligned himself with this trend by building two long ziplines in the jungle.

In total there are 400 meters of line. He has done a good job. He uses heavy duty steel lines and has built concrete towers to attach the lines. I gave it a go the other day. The ziplines are on the side of the hill. You feel really high off the ground and in the forest canopy. It is quite exciting going down the ziplines. It also provides a great view of the area.

To try the lines costs 400 Thai Baht per person. If you go in a group then discounts are possible. You can also combine a go on the ziplines with a jungle safari. For a 3 hour jungle safari and zipline experience it is 800 Thai Baht. Again group discounts are available.

Koh Phangan is 90% untouched rainforest. This is the great asset of the island that has not been properly exploited for tourism. It is something that people would want to see. It is part of the new eco-movement in tourism. The fact that it is a local lad doing it makes Jungle Flight also a responsible tourism spot.

For more about Jungle Flight visit http://kohphanganjungleflight.com/